The idea behind this website is to share my love of Morocco with anyone who is willing to open themselves to the sights, sounds, history, culture, crafts, cuisine and hospitality of this country. As far as I am aware, I am the only person blogging in Essaouira, about Essaouira, in English.
The website is a resource of information and images of Essaouira and Morocco and a portal to further information and advice. We are happy to help you where we can if you have questions about travelling to Essaouira and in Morocco or would like to source Moroccan items such as handicrafts. Just ask: your wish is our command! (And if we can’t help, we’ll know someone who can).
maroc-o-phile.com also serves as a portfolio of original writing about my experiences in and impressions of Morocco. I am available for freelance work, including travel writing, copy writing, translation and content provision as well as other consultancy services in management and marketing. If you like my writing style or would like further information on my work, please get in touch via
The website is also a window on Essaouira. I am based in this small Atlantic port and so naturally many of my photographs and images focus on the town and its environs. I am establishing a business here, so I hope that your curiosity about Morocco and maroc-o-phile.com will translate into an interest in other activities that I undertake. Ultimately, I hope that you too will become a maroc-o-phile!
Essaouira, in south Morocco, was once the port through which the bounty of the camel trains (including slaves from West- and Sub-Saharan Africa) was exported and it even served as the port for Timbuktu. In the halcyon days of the 60s it was on the hippy route – an extension of Crosby, Stills and Nash’s “Marrakech Express” if you like – and many local businesses still trade on the “Jimmy Hendrix was here” claim.
Today, Essaouira is still a bustling fishing port and you can eat delicious sardines and other fish literally straight off the boat. It is also a haven for Moroccan and foreign artists, who have galleries in the labyrinthine streets of the UNESCO World Heritage listed medina (walled city). The vibe in Essaouira is considerably less bustling than in bigger Moroccan cities. The whitewashed walls; the typical blue doors and shutters of the buildings and the fact that one whole side of the medina is open to the sea (and the Atlantic breeze, les Alizés in French), make the place much airier and brighter than, for example the maze of the Fes medina.
Essaouira is also a Mecca for watersports and world music enthusiasts. The trade winds which helped established Essaouira’s port now make it Morocco’s top kitesurfing destination. Surfing and windsurfing locations are also available along the coast.
For world music fans, Essaouira’s Gnaoua World Music Festival every June is a must-see. Now preparing it’s 16th edition, the festival showcases the best of gnaoua music (a kind of Islamic spiritual music involving trancey beats and acrobatics) and music from around the world. The main concerts are open air and free, and each foreign group performs a fusion gig with the gnaouis, which is really special. However, all year round you can hear local and African instruments and attend small concerts all over town.
Essaouira’s history as the gateway to Africa, a Portuguese fortress (known as Mogador), part of the French Protectorate of Morocco, as well as connections to Moorish Andalusia, have left an interesting heritage which is visible in the faces of its inhabitants as well as in their music and culture.
If all of that activity and history sounds a bit too much like hard work, visitors can take a leaf out of those hippies’ books and just relax. Essaouira has a multitude of bars, restaurants and cafes, many with roof terraces. The beach is long curve of golden sand, right outside the city walls. If you feel the need, there are plenty of shopping opportunities which are a lot more laid back than in the bigger city souks. Essaouira is the perfect place for chillin’!
Essaouira has an airport served by Ryanair (from Brussels-Charleroi and Marseilles), Transavia (from Paris-Orly) and Royal Air Maroc (from Casablanca with a London route to be announced in summer 2013). The town is around 2.5 hours by taxi, private transfer or bus from Marrakech or a little further from Agadir, both of which are served by several airlines.